Varanasi

Varanasi — Kashi, Banaras — is among the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth, and the spiritual capital of India for a great many Hindus. The Ganga runs north here, an auspiciousness that shaped everything: some eighty ghats stepping down to the water, a lane network too tight for cars, and a rhythm of ritual that has not paused in living memory.

It is not a comfortable city. It is loud, crowded and intense. It is also unforgettable, and most pilgrims who come once find a reason to return.

What to see

Kashi Vishwanath Temple

One of the twelve Jyotirlingas and the centre of the city’s spiritual life. The Vishwanath Dham corridor now connects the temple directly to the river at Lalita Ghat, transforming what used to be a very tight approach.

Dashashwamedh Ghat

The site of the evening Ganga aarti, performed by priests on raised platforms with tiered lamps. Arrive early for a step, or watch from a boat.

Sunrise boat ride

The classic Kashi experience — drifting from Assi Ghat past the bathers, the wrestlers and the cremation ghats as the light comes up.

Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple

Founded by Tulsidas and one of the warmest temples in the city, set in a leafy compound. Busiest on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Kaal Bhairav Temple

The guardian of Kashi. Tradition holds that a pilgrimage here is incomplete without his darshan.

Sarnath

Ten kilometres away, where the Buddha gave his first sermon. The Dhamek Stupa and the museum make an easy, calm half-day.

Best time to visit

October to March is the pleasant window. Dev Deepawali, on Kartik Purnima, is the city’s most spectacular night — every ghat lit with lamps. Summer is punishing; the monsoon raises the river and can close the lower ghats.

Getting there

Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport is about twenty-five kilometres from the ghats. Varanasi Junction and Banaras stations connect the city by rail. Ayodhya is around four hours by road, Prayagraj about three.

Practical notes

• Never photograph cremations at Manikarnika or Harishchandra ghats.
• Most temples close for a few hours at midday — plan around it.
• Walk. The old city lanes are the experience, and vehicles cannot reach most of it.
• Be wary of unofficial guides offering queue shortcuts near Vishwanath.
• Carry small notes for boatmen, offerings and cloakrooms.